Bamboo Fact Sheet and Growing Guide

Growth rate and ultimate size
Like any other grass, the growth rate of bamboo is determined by the degree of moisture and feeding. The ultimate
height and spread can therefore be difficult to predict. If plants are planted in humus rich soil that is well drained but yet
moisture retentive, your bamboo should thrive for you. The plants listed below are available from Coblands Nurseries
and the Cash & Carry’s. Some varities such as Phyllostachys aurea, Phyllostachys nigra, Pseudosasa japonica (Bambusa
Metake) are available up to 3 metres in a 45 litre pot. Larger plants are available on request.
Bambusa glaucescens ‘Alphonse Karr’
(Bambusa multiplex ‘Alphonse Karr’)
A handsome clump forming bamboo from China.
Young stem sheaths striped pink and green, and mature
stems about 2cm in diameter, are pink at first then turn
bright yellow to orange with green stripes of varying
widths. Extremely attractive and very popular.
Can grow up to 8 metres. Hardy to -13°C.
Fargesia nitida (Sinarundinaria nitida)
Originating from the Himalayas, thus being one of
the hardiest of all bamboos. It prefers semi-shade,
especially in hot, dry summers. The stem colour is
dark green sometimes red-brown. It is clump forming
and can grow up to 4 metres. Hardy to-30°C.
(A good substitute for Fargesia murialae, which
flowered two years ago)
Indocalamus tesselatus (Sasa tesselata)
Originating from China this plant can grow in semi-shade
to full sun. An excellent ground cover plant, growing to
1 metre in height. Its noticeable feature is its large leaves,
possibly the largest leaves of all hardy cultivated bamboo.
Hardy to -23°C.
Phyllostachys aurea
Originating from China, this plant is regularly planted in
the United Kingdom. The stems are green turning to a
dull yellow in sun, basal internodes thickening with
maturity. Ideal as a specimen, hedge or container plant.
Grows to 3-4 metres and is hardy to -20°C.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’
A very good coloured form, which in combination with
the interesting culms and upright growth, makes it a very
useful garden plant. ‘Koi’ has yellow culms and a green
stems. The plant benefits from a little shade to avoid the
green sulcus losing its intensity. Hardy to -20°C.
Phyllostachys babusoides ‘Castillonis’
‘Castillonis’ is the most popular form with its outstanding
yellow stems and green sulcus. It is a strong grower and
more successful in slightly colder regions. Hardy to -15°C.
Phyllostachys flexuosa
Originating from China, this green stem plant later turning
yellow with black speckles getting larger with age. The
upright stem has a zig-zag growth pattern, with a moderate
spreading habit. Height 2- 2.5 metres. Hardy to -23°C.
Phyllostachys nigra Boryana
Originating from China this bamboo has speckled brown
stems that are erect in habit. Can grow up to 3 metres
with moderate spread. Hardy to -23°C.
Phyllostachys nigra
Originating from China it requires a warm and sunny site.
The green stem gradually turns black with maturity. The
stems are naturally arched, with small leaves. It tends to
be slow spreading, growing to 2-3 metres. Hardy to -18°C.
Phyllostachys pubescens
(Phyllostachys hetrocycla f. pubescens)
Originating from China, it likes a warm site. The stem is
green-grey, with soft white hair when young. It will only
spread when planted in a warm position. Only grows to
3metres in the UK. Hardy to -23°C.
Pleioblastus chino ‘Kimmei’
(Hibanobambusa tranquillans ‘Kimmei’)
All Pleioblastus species produce long, powerful rhizomes
in good sites and a single plant therefore can spread
quickly. This plant has long, broad green leaves.
Grows to 1.5 metres. Regarded to be hardy.
Pleioblastus variegatus
This dwarf species has green and white striped leaves.
It benefits from pruning to keep the height in proportion
to its spread. A good ground cover plant for semi to full
shade, ideal for lightening dark areas. Evergreen, but best
to prune out old wood after the winter.
Pseudosasa japonica (Bambusa Metake)
Originating from South Japan and Korea this bamboo can
be planted in sun or shade. The stem is green in colour,
with moderate spread. Ideal as a specimen, hedge or in a
container. Height is 3.5 metres. A mature stand is very
impressive. Hardy -23°C.
COBLANDS
COBLANDS
Pseudosas japonica ‘Akebonosuji’
This is a fine variegated plant with bright yellow
variegation. This form should be divided frequently to
maintain the variegation as older plants have more
green leaves. Grows to about 1.5 - 2 metres and is
hardy to -23°C.
Sasa palmata f. nebulosa
In Japan, Sasa is planted to stabilize embankments
because the rhizomes penetrate the soil well and bind
it together. The plant needs much water and
nourishment to sustain such strong growth. If the 30cm
leaves become tatty, the grove can be occasionally cut
back to ground level. Can grow up to 1.5 - 2 metres.
Can be invasive if planted in ideal conditions.
Hardy to -30°C.
Sasaella ramosa (Arundinaria vagans)
Originating from Japan this excellent ground cover has
15cm long leaves that are green in colour. It is a quick
spreading plant that requires room to spread. Grows to
60cm tall and very hardy -30°C.
Semiarundinaria fastuosa
This plant comes from East Asia. It has a clump forming
habit and has relatively large leaves. This species is the
most wide spread and is known as the ‘Stately Bamboo’
because of its straight and strong stems. It is particularly
suitable for hedges. Can grow up to 7 metres.
Hardy to -23°C.
Shibataea kumasasa
Originating from Japan, this low growing bamboo is
80cm in height. It requires a damp position with some
shade in the garden. It is slow to spread, with rather
unusual short, broad leaves. The leaves are attached at
the node on very short stems, giving a rosette effect.
Hardy to -23°C.

Aquatic Gardening Construction and Maintenance

Aquatic plants have been an important part of gardens since early
history when they were first used in ancient gardens of the Far East,
Egypt and India. Early herbalists extracted tannin from the roots of
water lilies to calm a variety of nervous and digestive disorders.
Many water lilies also provided some of the earliest fabric dyes
which were extracted from their roots.
Contemporary aquatic gardening has received a lot of attention by
homeowners and commercial landscapers. The development and
increased availability of various types of preformed pools, flexible
liners and other containers has helped to foster the current increased
enthusiasm in aquatic gardening. These new materials are a great
improvement over the old tedious process of building pools out of
concrete.
The style and size of a water garden can range from a simple above
ground tub garden, a small preformed pond, or to a large pond
constructed with a flexible liner.
Pond location
The first step in designing a water garden is to consider where it
will be enjoyed the most. Some good locations for a pond are near
a patio, deck or within view from a window. A pond can be either
formal or informal in shape. Informally shaped ponds are the most
popular. Some common shapes are the classic kidney bean and the
figure eight.
In addition to locating the pond for best viewing a pond should be
located where it will receive at least five or six hours of direct sun
if flowering plants are desired. As the hours of direct sunlight
decreases, so do the blooms. The hardy and tropical bog plants
will perform best in semi-shaded sites. It is generally recommended
to avoid locating the pond directly under trees because of the leaves
and other debris that will fall into the pond. Also, avoid locating
the pond in a low spot because surface runoff may wash mud, lawn
fertilizers and pesticides into the pond.
Pond Construction
A pond can be made almost any size or shape desired if a flexible
liner is used. If a rigid preformed pond is chosen the size and
shape will be limited by what is available on the market. The
depth of a pond should be at least 18 inches in the center for the
successful over-wintering of hardy aquatic plants. A shallow ledge
should be provided along the outside edge of the pond for placement
of potted marginal plants. These plants cannot tolerate growing in
deep water. Make the ledge about 10 inches below the surface and
wide enough to submerge potted plants in a stable manner.
Installing a Flexible Liner
The development of flexible pond liners has done much to make
pond design and installation easier. It has played a major role in
the growing popularity of aquatic gardens. A flexible liner is a
thin rubber-like material cut from a large roll of material. Its
flexibility allows it to conform to the contour of any size and shape
desired. When properly installed, these liners will last for many
years.
There are three types of flexible liners on the market: polyvinyl
chloride (PVC), butyl rubber and ethylene propylene diene
monomer (EPDM). PVC liners were one of the first liners to be
developed. It ranges in thickness from 20-32 mils. PVC liners are
the least expensive and will last 7 to 10 years. The most limiting
factor of its durability is exposure to the sun. PVC is only moderately
resistant to the effects of ultraviolet radiation and will eventually
crack when exposed to prolonged sunlight. Always keep the pond
filled to the top to prevent the liner from being exposed to direct
sunlight.
Butyl rubber has also been used for a long time. It is a highly
recommended synthetic rubber liner because of its resistance to
ultraviolet radiation. It has a useful life of 20 years or more. It is
30 mils thick. It is easier to work with than the stiffer PVC liners
because it is more flexible.
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2
A more recent entry into the pond market, which is very similar
to butyl rubber, is EPDM. This is also a type of synthetic rubber
that is less expensive than butyl and has the same appearance and
durability. It is the thickest liner available (45 mil). It is a dark
charcoal gray or black and quite flexible and easy to install. EPDM
was originally used in the roofing industry and was manufactured
with an antifungal mineral talc coating. Some problems of fish
toxicity have been reported with earlier EPDM. The products
marketed as fish safe EPDM do not have these mineral talcs and
are very safe to use for ponds.
Determining Liner Size
Flexible liners are cut from rolls that may be 10, to 25 feet or
more in width. To determine the size of the liner required, determine
the length and width of the proposed pond. Next determine the
maximum depth in feet and multiply this by 2. Add this amount to
both the length and width. Finally add at least one additional foot
to both the length and width for the top edge overlap.
Formula:
For additional protection use a spun underlayment material made
for this purpose. Rug padding or several layers of wet newspapers
can also serve as a cushion under the liner.
Carefully spread the liner to fit the contours the best you can to
make the liner conform to the excavation. Don’t worry too much
about the unsightliness of the folds. They will lay flat with the
weight of the water. When the pool is filled with plants, these
folds will be difficult to see. Gradually fill the pond with water as
the liner is folded into place.
Installing a Rigid Liner
Actually almost any water tight container if large enough can be a
potential water garden. Many things, such as large ceramic pots,
plastic horse trough, child’s swimming pools, half whiskey barrels,
etc., are suitable for above or below ground. New whiskey barrels
should be aged by filling with water, emptying and refilling until
the odor of alcohol is gone. There are plastic inserts that may be
used in them to avoid the toxic effect of the alcohol. To assure the
successful overwintering of hardy plants in above ground containers,
install a stock tank or pond heater.
Using a rigid liner has merit because it is tough, durable, quick
and easy to install, has a life expectancy of over fifty years (for
fiberglass) and comes already molded into various shapes. Other
types of preformed liners are made of molded semi-rigid plastic
which are less expensive but also less durable than fiberglass. As
with the flexible liners all sharp objects should be removed and
the excavation be lined with an inch of sand. After the site
preparation, place the pool so that the rim is slightly above the soil
line. Level the pool from side to side using a carpenter level.
Place soil around the pool exterior while filling the pool with
water. This will help reduce stress on the pool as it is being filled
with water. Edge the top with flat stones.
Constructing a water garden is really not a very difficult task.
When the proper site has been selected and the pond properly
installed, it will provide you with years of beauty and enjoyment.
Liner width = pond width + 2x depth + 1 ft.
Liner length = pond lenght +2x depth + 1 ft.
The extra 1 ft is to allow sufficient quantity of the liner to go
under the edging stones and behind them. Do not trim the liner
until the pond is finished and the water level is adequate. Allowing
the water level to submerge part of the rock edging helps to make
a very natural-looking edge.
Remove all sharp objects like stones and tree roots to protect the
pond liner from puncture. These lines are very tough but if a
puncture or tear should develop, it is easily repaired with a pond
liner repair kit.
INSTALLATION OF A FLEXIBLE LINER
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Pond Maintenance Tips
Like any garden worth keeping, there is some basic maintenance
techniques to practice. In the spring remove any debris that may
have fallen into the pond during the winter. If there is an excessive
accumulation over many years, the pond will have to be drained
completely to remove this material.
Water lilies and other aquatic plants grow very rapidly and, in
time, become crowded, reducing their vigor and bloom. Every
two to three years they should be lifted from their containers and
divided in the spring as new growth begins to appear. Give them
their first fertilization at this time.
In the summer, remove dead plant debris. Water lilies, in particular,
continually have older leaves dying as new leaves emerge. Excessive
plant growth may need to be removed to make viewing the fish
possible. Continue to fertilize lilies during the summer.
Occasionally, insects specific to aquatic plants, such as the water
lily aphid and the water lily beetle, will invade the pond. Fortunately
their destruction is usually not very severe. Their are no registered
pesticides for home aquatic ponds. Simply dunk the leaves in the
water or hose off the aphids. The fish will enjoy eating them.
The water lily beetle is easily controlled by removing infested
leaves. This will break the life cycle.
In the fall cut back the frost-killed tops of the hardy plants. The
tropical plants can be discarded. Stop feeding the fish when the
water temperature drops below 55 degrees F, this usually occurs
in mid to late November. Move all plants into the deeper area of
the pond (18 inches) for freeze protection. If the pond is in a
location where tree leaves might fall into it, cover the pond with
chicken wire.
And lastly, if there are fish in the pond, install a floating stock
tank heater to keep a small portion of the pond free of ice in the
winter. This is an automatic deicer than comes on when the
temperature is a few degrees above freezing. A heater of 1500
watts is recommended for Maryland winters. One word of caution,
the fish will group around the heater and those that get pushed
against the heater element get burned. A good heater will have a
small guard panel to keep the fish from touching the heating
element. The fish will benefit from this ventilation hole which
allows oxygen to enter. However in larger ponds the heater will
freeze in place during very cold winters. If the pond should freeze
over do not try to crack or break the ice. The shock may injure the
fish.

Bacterial Leaf Scorch in Landscape Trees

Bacterial leaf scorch is a chronic disease caused by
a bacterium, Xylella fastidiosa, that grows in the xylem of
the tree and physically clogs these water-conducting ves-
sels. As the bacterium multiplies, water transport becomes
more limited. The tree suffers water stress, especially in
mid to late summer, resulting in leaf scorch; a browning
or discoloration of the margins of the leaves with interior
portions of the leaves near the veins remaining green. The
bacterium is spread by leafhoppers, spittlebugs and other
xylem-feeding insects.
Hosts and Symptoms
Bacterial leaf scorch has a wide host range including
many herbaceous and woody species (goldenrod, alfalfa,
clover, blackberries). Tree species most affected are elm,
sweetgum, sycamore, dogwood, mulberry, red maple, sugar
maple and particularly, many species in the red oak fam-
ily – pin, northern red and scarlet oaks. Symptoms usually
appear on one branch and progressively spread throughout
the crown in subsequent years. On large trees, it may take
five to 10 years for the disease to progress through the entire
crown. Infested branches generally releaf for several years
following the onset of scorch disease symptoms. Leaves will
appear normal in the spring, but later show scorch symp-
toms. Growth is reduced and tree crowns become progres-
sively sparse as the tree declines. Eventually, infected trees
will succumb from the disease.
Diagnosis
Symptoms of bacterial leaf scorch are often mis-
taken for those produced by vascular wilt diseases such as
oak wilt and Dutch elm disease. The difference is that the
scorch and decline occurs progressively over several years
rather than occurring over a period of two or three months
with the wilt diseases. Sometimes bacterial leaf scorch is
difficult to diagnose on symptoms alone, since the symp-
toms are similar to other related tree responses to drought,
salt damage or root injury. Early fall coloration of leaves
often coincides with leaf scorch. Therefore, a plant tissue
analysis lab must perform a positive diagnosis to determine
if the bacterium is present.
Integrated Management
Unfortunately, no cure
or treatment for infected trees
or a strategy for preventing
infection is presently avail-
able. Leafhoppers and other
insects that spread the dis-
ease are active for most of
the growing season. This
makes disease prevention by
controlling the insect vector
with insecticide treatments
impractical.
The life of infected
trees can be prolonged with
judicious management. Trunk
injections with antibiotics
Bacterial leaf scorch on northern red oak. leaf scorch on a sycamore leaf. Note the live tissue near the veins of the leaf
and the dead tissue at the leaf margins.
have been shown to suppress the symptoms. Treatments must
be made annually in late May or early June. Antibiotics only
cause a remission of the symptoms, not a cure. Injections
must be applied each year. The continual wounding made by
these injections raises concerns whether the wounds provide
an entrance to secondary disease organisms.
Pruning is another possible treatment if the disease
is detected early. Pruning of infected branches can delay
the spread of the disease within the crown. Mulching and
watering during drought periods may reduce moisture stress
and possibly delay scorch development. The effects of fer-
tilization are unclear with this disease. Fertilization treat-
ments are recommended when a soil or leaf analysis shows
a nutrient deficiency.
Summary
Since there is no effective treatment or cure for bac-
terial leaf scorch, one should expect diseased trees to be
gradually lost over the years. The eventual best remedy for
bacterial leaf scorch is tree replacement once the tree no lon-
ger adds to the landscape. However, the life of the tree can
be prolonged somewhat with judicious management since
tree death is not immediate. Thus, tree replacement can be
done before the infected tree dies, allowing tree establish-
ment before infected trees are removed.

A Fungal Disease of Shade Trees

L'anthracnose est un nom pour un groupe de maladies causées par plusieurs champignons étroitement liés qui s'attaquent à beaucoup de nos plus beaux arbres d'ombrage. Il se produit plus fréquemment et plus sévèrement le sycomore, chêne blanc, orme, cornouiller et l'érable.
Autres plantes-hôtes qui sont habituellement seulement légèrement touchés comprennent le tilleul (tilleul), tulipier, hickory, bouleau et noyer. Chaque espèce de champignon de l'anthracnose s'attaque seulement un nombre limité d'espèces d'arbres. Le champignon qui provoque l'anthracnose du platane, par exemple, infecte seulement sycomore et pas d'autres essences. Autres champignons qui causent l'anthracnose ont des cycles de vie similaires, mais exigent légèrement différentes d'humidité et de température pour l'infection.
Champignons Anthracnose symptômes peuvent entraîner la défoliation de la plupart des espèces d'érable, chêne, orme, noyer, bouleau, érable sycomore et hickory et, occasionnellement, de cendres et de tilleuls. Dommages de ce type se produisent généralement après un temps exceptionnellement frais et humide pendant le débourrement. Seul les attaques sont rarement préjudiciables à l'arbre, mais des infections annuelles provoquent une croissance réduite et peuvent prédisposer l'arbre aux autres stress. Dommage peut être sous forme de: • tuant des bourgeons, qui stimule le développement de nombreux rameaux courts ou « balais de sorcière; » elles risquent de s'abîmer la forme des arbres • annélation et tuant des brindilles, feuilles, et répètent de branches jusqu'à un pouce de diamètre • perte prématurée des feuilles, qui, sur plusieurs années successives, affaiblit l'arbre et il prédispose à la pyrale attaque et hiver blessures • la chute des feuilles prématurée, qui diminue l'ombre et la valeur ornementale des symptômes spécifiques de l'anthracnose arbre varient quelque peu selon les espèces d'arbres infectés: • le sycomore, de feuilles et de conseils en croissance des rameaux peuvent mourir tels qu'ils ressortent de le œuf. Ce dommage est souvent confondu avec la blessure de gel tardif. Soudain un brunissement et tuant des feuilles individuelles ou feuille grappes peuvent se produire car les feuilles se dilate. La maladie se développe plus tard dans la saison, entraînant irrégulière brun à presque noir, les zones mortes entre ou le long des nervures principales et s'étendant jusqu'à la marge (Fig. 1). Infectés automne feuilles lorsque le pétiole est annelé ou lorsque plusieurs lésions agrandir et fusionnent pour taches grandes, mort de forme. Après la défoliation par des infections de printemps, l'arbre peut apparaître nue à l'exception des touffes de feuilles au bout des branches.
Repousse apparaît en songe.
Forme engloutie de chancres sur les rameaux plus gros pendant un temps plus frais en automne, hiver et printemps (Fig. 2). Brindilles peuvent mourir à la suite de la formation de chancre.
Lorsque les rameaux terminaux sont tués, des rameaux latéraux se succéder comme chefs de file. Ainsi, répété résultats de dépérissement du rameau dans la formation de branches tordues.
• Sur bois, petits dispersés de taches brunes ou forme de grosses taches brunes légères le long des veines. Les feuilles regarder roussis.
• Sur l'érable, forme des zones brun violacé le long des veines ou plus grande, irrégulier, la lumière pour former des taches brunes foncées le long ou entre les nervures (Fig.3), s'étendant sur le vantail Fig. 2. Chancre brindille causé par le champignon de l'anthracnose du platane.
(Photo par E. Dutky-U. MD.).
Fig. 1. Brûlant du tissu foliaire causé par le champignon de l'anthracnose du platane.
(Photo par E. Dutky-U. MD.).
Produits commerciaux d'avertissement sont nommés dans cette publication à titre informatif seulement. Virginie Cooperative Extension ne cautionne pas ces produits et n'envisage pas de discrimination à l'égard d'autres produits qui peuvent être aussi approprié.
marge.
• Le frêne, grands, irréguliers, légères taches brunes apparaissent, le plus souvent le long des marges de la feuille (Fig. 4).
• Le tilleul, grandes surfaces bruns avec marges noires apparaissent, surtout le long des nervures principales. Les zones sont petites et grandes et circulaire à s'allonger.
• Le bouleau, taches petites, irrégulières, circulaires, bruns avec des marges bruns foncés sont apparents.
• Le hickory, grands, irréguliers, rougeâtres des taches brunes apparaissent sur la surface supérieure de la feuille et une zone brune terne est apparente sur la face inférieure des feuilles.
• Le noyer, irrégulière, circulaire, brun foncé à taches noires sont visibles sur les feuilles.
• Le cornouiller, deux maladies différentes anthracnose peuvent se produire. Symptômes de l'anthracnose spot comprennent des feuilles minuscules et taches de la bractée, environ la taille d'une tête d'épingle, avec les centres blanchâtres et bordures violacées. Symptômes de Discula anthracnose (anthracnose du cornouiller) sont irréguliers, petites à grosses taches bruns avec des bordures violacées sur les feuilles et bractées, dépérissement de direction inférieur et des chancres de tronc qui aboutissent à la mort de l'arbre.
Champignons Cycle Anthracnose maladie hivernent dans les feuilles infectées sur le terrain. Certains champignons anthracnose causant le chancre, tels que le champignon de l'anthracnose sycomore, hivernent également dans les rameaux sur le sol ou dans les rameaux chancreux qui restent sur l'arbre. Les spores microscopiques de la plupart des champignons anthracnose sont produites dans les tissus infectés en avril et en mai.
Les spores sont soufflés et éclaboussé les bourgeons et les jeunes feuilles et, avec les conditions d'humidité favorables, de pénétrer et d'infecter le gonflement des bourgeons et des feuilles qui se déroule. Périodes longues pluies permettent au champignon de se propager rapidement.
Mesures de lutte contrôle pour différents arbres varient légèrement car la période d'infection est différente selon les espèces de champignons impliqués. Si les fongicides sont utilisés, pulvérisations doivent être appliquées de manière préventive, commençant avant que l'infection ait lieu. Pulvérisation des grands arbres pour de nombreuses maladies de l'anthracnose peut être irréaliste et inutile, surtout dans les ressorts secs. L'assainissement est important pour réduire la quantité d'inoculum fongique disponible pour nouvelles infections. Pour les arbres de grande, grande valeur sycomore, injection avec le fongicide, hypophosphite de thiabendazole (p. ex. Arbotect 20 S), sur une base de 3 ans est également une option (Fig 5).
Pour le contrôle efficace de l'anthracnose de la plupart des maladies de l'anthracnose: • ramassant et supprimer infecté les feuilles à l'automne. Feuilles peuvent être déchiquetés et compostés ou brûlés.
• Tailler et brûler ou enterrer les morts brindilles et petites branches. Prune pour fluidifier la Couronne. Amincissement améliorera le mouvement de l'air et promouvoir un séchage plus rapide des feuilles.
• Si l'engrais est nécessaire, fertiliser à l'automne environ un mois après la date moyenne de la première gelée ou au début du printemps environ un mois avant la date de la dernière gelée pour augmenter la vigueur de l'arbre.
• Si la lutte chimique est désirée, pulvériser avec un fongicide contenant du mancozèbe (Dithane M-45, Manzate 200) à budswell et deux fois encore au cours de l'expansion foliaire (dans la plupart des années, il s'agirait à intervalles de 10-14 jours).

Bacterial Wetwood Disease of Trees

Wetwood is a water-soaked condition of wood in the
trunk and branches of trees. This condition has been attrib-
uted to bacterial infection in the inner sapwood and outer
heartwood area of the tree. Infection is normally associated
with wounding or environmental stress on the tree. The
bacteria, Enterobactor cloacae, has been implicated as the
cause of wetwood in elm, but numerous other bacteria have
been associated with this condition in other trees such as
cottonwood, willow, ash, maple, birch, hickory, beech, oak,
sycamore, cherry and yellow-poplar. Bacteria alter wood
cell walls, causing moisture content of the wood to increase.
Infected wood may also have a high (basic) pH and a high
concentration of microelements.
The most common evidence of wetwood is bleeding
or “fluxing” of sap from the trunk or larger limbs of a tree.
Often this fluxing is associated with a wound, but has also
been observed where no obvious wound existed. Bacteria
associated with wetwood are common in soil and water
Stain associated with bacterial wetwood disease on the trunk
of pin oak.
Closeup of damage to bole (pruning scar) where fl ux of sap
is exuding. Notice the bird peck hole where birds are either
hunting for insects attracted by the fl ow of sap or actually
feeding on the sap. The flux of sap may be the result of insects boring, animal rubbing
or mechanical injuries to the tree, such as frost cracks or
pruning. During extended drought periods, the condition
has been noticed at the base of larger, older trees, espe-
cially oaks.
Bacterial fermentation of the sap during warm
weather produces gases (often methane), causing pressure
in the affected wood. The pressure forces the sap out of the
tree by the path of least resistance. This is why the fluxing
is usually found near wounds and openings in the bark.
The exuding sap will run down the side of the tree, soak-
ing a large area of bark. Once exposed to the air, the sap
will become contaminated with other bacteria, yeasts and
fungi, resulting in a foul-smelling, slimy, foamy substance.
Fluxing of the sap is sometimes referred to as slime flux.
The flux associated with wetwood should not be confused
with the normal bleeding that may occur after pruning.
If slime flux runs down the tree for extended periods,
it may cause the bark to decay and eventually may damage
the cambium. The cambium is the regenerative layer of tis-
sue between the bark and the wood that is responsible for the
tree’s diameter growth. The cambium produces new wood
and bark each year and is directly related to tree vigor.
Fluxing of sap may also cause toxicity in the sap that
is carried to the branches, thus resulting in wilting and
defoliation of the leaves. Plants adjacent to the tree trunk
may also be killed or damaged by toxic sap exuded from
wetwood wounds. Wetwood alone rarely causes tree death,
but may lead to secondary pathogens that combine for con-
tinued tree decline and eventual death.
Wood-infesting and other insects are attracted to the
flux exudates. These insects may lay eggs and reproduce in
the fluxing material. Wood-infesting insects are likely to
invade the tree after being attracted to the slimy exudate.
There is no control for wetwood disease. Preventing
damage and stress to tree roots and stem is probably the best
way to avoid a wetwood problem. Drought conditions tend
to increase wetwood problems, so it is important that the
tree receives adequate water during the growing season.
Treatments for trees already infected with wetwood
are generally only cosmetic and of no remedial value. Trees
affected with wetwood will compartmentalize around the
wetwood-affected area, and limit its spread to other parts
of the tree. This is nature’s way of protecting trees from
infections.
A previously recommended practice of installing
drain tubes in the wetwood-affected area to relieve sap
pressure and remove lateral liquids has been challenged by
researchers in recent years. Research has found that the ben-
efits of tube installation are offset by the injury the instal-
lation causes. In fact, the spread of the infection to other
tree parts may be increased by using drain tubes. Also, the
removal of the internal liquids can create conditions favor-
able for invasion by wood-decay fungi.
For these same reasons, research has shown it is better
not to scrape the wound and clean out the infected wetwood
areas. Wetwood will cause only a small amount of injury
for most healthy trees if they are allowed to compartmen-
talize the diseased area. It is far better for the tree to have
a small section infected by wetwood than to be invaded by
wood-decay fungi that could cause far more damage and
structurally weaken the tree.
Use preventative measures to avoid wetwood disease.
Follow good pruning techniques that result in minimum
injury to the tree. Prune only as required for shaping the
tree and removing the dead wood. Never cut behind the
bark ridge when pruning a branch; i.e., do not make flush
cuts. Protect trees, especially the roots, during construction
projects. Fertilize and water as needed to avoid nutritional or
moisture stress. Trees usually do not require watering unless
prolonged drought occurs. Trees growing in lawns do not
need additional fertilizer if the lawn grass is fertilized.
For trees with wetwood disease, wash the slime flux
from the surface and apply insecticidal spray to protect the
tree from insect infestations. Loose, dead bark or limbs
should be removed. Cutting or scraping the fluxing area is
not recommended. Increased applications of nitrogen fertil-
izer have increased the growth rate and recovery of some
wetwood-affected trees.

Backyard composting a guide to recycling

Many people practice the three
Rs of conservation. They recycle aluminum cans,
paper, and glass. They reuse paper as scratch pads and
line garbage pails with plastic grocery bags. Some re-
duce their use of energy and materials through energy
conservation and careful maintenance to make things
last.
Apply the three Rs to yard trimmings and leftover
food, and you have composting—an economical way to
reduce solid waste, reuse organic materials, and recycle
nutrients as a soil conditioner. Composting is about be-
ing good caretakers of our environment.
It’s in the bag
In order to estimate how much you threw out last week,
gather one day’s garbage from your household. Weigh
on a bathroom scale or estimate by comparing to a known
weight, like a 20-pound sack of rice. Multiply by seven,
and you have the amount of garbage produced by your
household each week.
Look at what’s in your garbage.
Any recyclable plastic or aluminum
containers or old newspapers? Take
these to be recycled. See any food
stuff – banana peels, fuzzy leftovers,
coffee grounds – or yard trimmings?
These materials are easy to compost.
When you remove the recyclables, 20
pounds of garbage is often reduced
to as little as 5 pounds.
Imitating nature
Composting is a process by which
organic materials (such as branches,
leaves, and fruits) biologically decom-
pose under controlled conditions.
More simply, compost is the result of humans imi-
tating nature’s disposal system.
When vegetation dies or falls off trees in forests and
fields, insects, worms, and bacteria eat it. They leave
behind small loose particles called humus. Humus binds
soil particles together into larger aggregates, or grains,
that allow water and air to enter the soil more easily.
Humus also contains important nutrients in forms plants
can easily use for healthy growth and reproduction.
Mixed with soil, compost improves the soil’s tilth.
That is, it makes the soil looser, or lighter, which makes
water, oxygen, carbon dioxide, and minerals more avail-
able to plants. Compost improves root penetration and
makes the soil easier to work. Compost conserves water
by helping the soil retain it better.
Because it is made from decomposed organic mate-
rial from many sources, compost contains many of the
nutrients plants require (although not always enough to
sustain intense commercial production). Compost has
even been known to reduce the inci-
dence of certain soil-borne diseases
that have devastating effects on plant
health and productivity, perhaps be-
cause the beneficial soil microbes
added in compost outcompete the
pathogenic organisms.
How it works
A balance of five essential ingredi-
ents is the key to rapid, trouble-free
composting. If you maintain a pile
with the correct balances of moisture,
air, and carbon and nitrogen contents
of the raw materials, then decompos-
ing organisms—insects, worms, bac-
teria, and fungi—will do the rest.
HG-41, continuing the CTAHR General Home Garden Series, was first published as Instant Information Series 21, October, 1996.
Backyard Composting
Recycling a Natural Product
Often, over half of home
wastes are compostable.
HG-41 Backyard Composting CTAHR — Apr. 2002
2
Water is required by all living things, including
decomposers. The compost pile should be moist, but not
too wet. A bad odor may indicate that excess moisture is
inhibiting decomposition.
Oxygen is essential to most decomposers. Oxygen
cannot circulate well if the pile is too tight, too big, or too
wet. If the pile is soaked with water, most decomposers
die and composting is taken over by a few “specialists”
that can live without air. Anaerobic decomposition—de-
tected by its swampy odor—is slow and inefficient.
Carbon is abundant in most organic materials and
is broken down by decomposers to create food-energy.
However, other nutrients are needed for carbon to be
readily eaten. Wood and paper are examples of materi-
als that are high in carbon but may be deficient in other
nutrients and thus slow to decompose.
Nitrogen is required by decomposers in relatively
large quantities. It is a major ingredient in protein, a basic
building block of life. Without sufficient nitrogen in your
compost pile to assist digestion of carbon-rich materi-
als, decomposition goes very slowly. Green leaves and
grass clippings are examples of nitrogen-rich materials.
Decomposing organisms produce heat by their ac-
tivity. This heat in turn energizes them, and the whole
process goes faster. Heat also helps kill disease organ-
isms and weed seeds. The speed of composting varies,
but at some point the center of the pile should feel hot or
very warm to the touch. More mass (a bigger heap), more
water, more air, or more nitrogen may be needed to get
the process going.
A well managed pile can produce compost in about
two or three months.
Getting started
A proper surface is important. Compost is easier to turn
when piled on concrete or another hard surface, but
worms and other beneficial organisms from the soil will
have a harder time reaching the pile. Level ground is
also a good surface.
The dimensions of the pile, as a rule of thumb, should
be at least 3 feet high by 3 ft wide by 3 ft long to maintain
sufficient heat in its interior. If the pile is too large, air
has trouble getting to the center. Maximum recommended
size is 5 ft high by 5 ft wide, with no limit to the length.
The appropriate location for a compost pile is a shady
area protected from wind (to prevent it from drying out).
Protect the pile from heavy rain by covering it with a
plastic sheet, or make it under a roof. Build it where it
can’t be flooded.
Have a protected area to store finished compost if it
isn’t going to be used immediately. Avoid mixing
undecomposed materials with finished compost.
Choose a composting method
Set-ups for a compost pile range from simple to elaborate.
Basic compost heap—Simply pile and mix the com-
post materials on the ground. Cover the pile when it rains
to prevent it from getting too wet or losing nutrients to
leaching. Turn the heap regularly (every week or two).
Building the pile over a layer of scrap plastic pipes drilled
with holes allows for air penetration from below and
reduces the need for turning.
Compost pit—Pits are ideal for composting mate-
rials consisting mostly of food scraps. Dig a hole in the
ground, add the materials, mix with soil in the hole, and
refill the hole with at least 8 inches of soil. Fallow areas
of your garden are good places for compost pits.
Holding units—Bins help to contain the compost
heap, keep it out of sight, and can make it easier to turn.
They can be made of concrete blocks, wire mesh, or
wood (although wood may lead to termite problems). If
the bin is a movable type, it can be lifted from the pile
and placed next to it when it is time for turning; just
shovel the heap back into the empty bin. Old garbage
cans can be used as holding units if they have enough
large holes to allow air to circulate and holes in the bot-
tom to allow water to drain.
Turning units—Some commercial composting
units feature rotating barrels that make mixing the pile
easier and reduce the use of shovels or forks for turning.
Another way to make turning easier is to build two or
three adjacent holding units. The first is filled with the
new pile. When the pile is turned, it is shifted into the
next bin. By the third turning, the pile is usually on its
last month of decomposition.
What to compost
Organisms that decompose organic materials to form
compost depend on a “diet” of carbon and nitrogen.
Fresh, green materials are rich in nitrogen, and so are
animal manures. Just as plants need nitrogen to grow,
decomposers need nitrogen to fuel the decomposition
process. Grass clippings are rich in nitrogen, and wood
chips are a carbon source. The key to making a compost
3
HG-41 Backyard Composting CTAHR — Apr. 2002
pile is to combine nitrogen-rich materials with carbon
sources in the right proportions, with the right amount
of moisture, and adequate aeration.
Building a compost pile
This simple recipe for making a compost pile should
produce ready-to-use compost in a few months.
1. Accumulate enough materials for a pile at least 2 x
2 x 2 ft; or even better, to make a 3-ft cube.
2. Shred or chop the materials to 1–2 inches in size to
expose more surface area for faster decomposition.
3. Start the pile with a 4–6 inch thick base of carbon-
source materials (dead leaves, wood chips, shredded
paper, etc.). Moisten. Add a 2–3 inch layer of nitrogen-
rich materials. Food scraps may make up part of this
layer. Continue to alternate and mix layers of nitrogen-
rich materials with carbon sources, adding water as
needed. The pile should be about 3–4 ft high or, if in a
bin, not more than 4–5 ft high. Close the bin or cover
the pile with a plastic sheet.
4. Inoculate a new pile, if desired, by sprinkling a small
amount of topsoil or compost between layers. Some
composters believe this speeds the process by “seed-
ing” the new pile with decomposing organisms.
5. Monitor moisture content; test by feeling a handful
of compost and squeezing it as you would a sponge. It
should feel moist without yielding more than a few drops
of liquid. If the pile is too wet, turn it to allow air in and
improve drainage. If the pile is too dry, water it and turn it.
6. Periodically check the temperature in the pile’s in-
terior. A compost thermometer is helpful, but you can
estimate the temperature by touch. It should peak be-
tween 120° and 160°F (hot to the touch). When the tem-
perature begins to drop, turn the pile and rotate materi-
als from the outer and top parts of the pile toward the
base and middle; move the more composted middle part
to the outer part of the pile. For easy turning, use a gar-
den fork to shift the compost to a second bin; the mate-
Materials OK to use
Nitrogen-rich materials
Grass clippings
Seaweed and aquatic plants (washed to remove salt)
Fruit and vegetable trimmings
Kitchen scraps like coffee grounds, egg shells, leftover
bread, rice, etc.
Fresh, leafy garden trimmings
Carbon sources
Chipped trees
Twigs, small branches from trees and shrubs (chopped)
Sawdust (from untreated wood)
Stems of fibrous grasses
Palm fronds (chopped or shredded)
Newspaper or white paper (shredded)
Undesireable materials
May contribute pests (weeds, plant diseases)
when inadequately composted
Weedy, persistent plants
Diseased plants
Human health hazard
Dog or cat feces, used kitty litter
May attract flies, rats, animals
Oils
Dairy products
Meat or bones of animals, poultry, fish
Are not biodegradable
Metals, glass
Rubber, plastics
Some examples of compost enclosures
HG-41 Backyard Composting CTAHR — Apr. 2002
4
rial at the top will now be at the bottom. In the process,
you are aerating the pile, and you can add water if the
pile seems to be dry.
7. Continue to monitor the temperature in the pile. It
should heat up again. After the temperature peaks, turn
the pile once more. You may note that white molds de-
crease over time, insect populations will change, and ben-
eficial worms become abundant as the compost matures.
8. The process is completed when the pile does not
generate any more heat. When the pile is cool and the
compost has aged for another four weeks, it should be
finished. The pile should be much smaller than its origi-
nal size, and the original materials should no longer be
recognizable. The compost should be dark, loose (crum-
bly), and without any strong or unpleasant odor.
9. Use the compost to mix into the soil or to make com-
post tea to use for watering crops, seedlings, and starts.
Spread compost on your lawn and under shrubs, flow-
ering plants, vegetables, and trees.
Helpful hints
•
Chop or shred leaves, twigs, and other materials to
speed composting. Smaller pieces of organic mate-
rial “cook” faster than larger pieces because more of
the material surface is exposed.
•
A compost pile needs the right mix of materials to
decompose quickly. When building the pile, try to
have at least one part nitrogen-rich materials for ev-
ery two to three parts carbon sources. You may need
to experiment with different materials and proportions
to develop enough heat for rapid decomposition.
•
If there is not enough nitrogen-rich material, sprinkle
small amounts of commercial nitrogen fertilizer be-
tween layers. (Note: these fertilizers are concentrated;
use sparingly.)
•
Balance moisture and aeration to develop heat; too
much of either results in a “cold,” inactive pile. The
hotter the pile, the faster the composting process. Tem-
perature of an actively composting pile normally range
from 120 to 150°F. Higher temperatures (140–160°F)
kill harmful pathogens, insects, and weed seeds. Avoid
turning the pile too often, because the heat is lost
whenever the pile is turned. Turn it immediately, how-
ever, if an odor develops; the smell should fade away.
Alternatives to composting
You can reuse organic materials in your yard in other ways.
People practice “passive” composting when they pile up
organic materials but don’t turn the pile. Without turn-
ing, the pile will be “cooler” and much slower to decom-
pose. The materials break down eventually, and com-
post can be removed from the bottom of the pile. This
method may not kill weed seeds and plant pathogens,
and the pile may attract insect and animal pests.
To fertilize your lawn, leave nitrogen-rich grass clip-
pings in place after mowing. Mow “high”—clippings
should be less than one-third of the grass blade—and
mow so as to spread the clippings evenly across the lawn.
Mulching is similar to composting but requires less
effort. Chipped or shredded organic materials such as
lawn clippings, leaves, pine needles, shrubs, and trees
can be spread on the soil surface around your plants.
Mulch controls weeds, keeps moisture in the soil, and
reduces soil erosion.
Compost Pile Troubleshooting
Symptoms Likely problems Solutions
Offensive odor Insufficient aeration Turn and “loosen” pile
Ammonia odor Too much nitrogen Add carbon-source materials
Pile doesn’t heat up Insufficient nitrogen Add nitrogen-rich materials
Pile too wet Turn, add dry carbon sources, protect from rain
Pile too dry Turn, sprinkle with water
Pile too small Add more materials
Pile attracts flies, animals Inappropriate materials Don’t use meats, oils; remove attracting materials
or rotate them to center of pile and cover pile with
carbon-source materials.

Entomology and Plant Pathology Adult azalea lace bug

Since its introduction from Japan in the early 1900’s,
the azalea lace bug has become a destructive pest of azaleas.
Although this bug prefers evergreen azalea varieties, it will
infest deciduous varieties. Mountain laurel can also become
infested.
The smooth, white egg of the lace bug, which measures
approximately 0.4 mm by 0.8 mm, is flask shaped with the
neck to one side. It is usually deposited in the underside
tissue of a young leaf along the mid-rib or large vein. Each
egg is inserted in the tissue with its neck slightly about the
leaf surface.
Female lace bugs lay groups of eggs on the underside of
the leaves in September and October. These eggs overwinter
and hatch during March and April. The populations build
from spring through autumn with about four generations
possible. A large population of lace bugs can be established
during July, August and September. It is quite possible to
find all stages of the lace bug together under a leaf during
this time.
The adult lace bug is 1/8 inch long and 1/16 inch wide.
It has lacy wings with brown and black markings and light
brown legs and antennae. The young nymph lace bug is
nearly colorless at hatching but soon turns black and spiny.
It sheds its outer skin six times and ranges in size from 0.4
mm to 1.8 mm before becoming an adult.
Injury to the plants is caused by nymphs and adults as
they extract sap from the under surfaces of the leaves. The
damage appears as spotted discoloration or bleaching of the
upper surfaces of the leaves. In severe infestations, the
leaves become almost white, many of them drying com-
pletely and dropping off. The undersides of the leaves are
also disfigured by the black, dry, shiny excrement and cast
skins of the insects.
SP290-E 1M 6/03(Rev) E12-4615-00-033-03
The Agricultural Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, age,
national origin, sex, veteran status, religion or disability and is an Equal Opportunity Employer.
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
The University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture,
and county governments cooperating in furtherance of Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914.
Agricultural Extension Service
Charles L. Norman, Dean
In order to protect people and the environment, pesticides should be used safely. This is everyone’s responsibility, especially the user. Read and follow
label directions carefully before you buy, mix, apply, store or dispose of a pesticide. According to laws regulating pesticides, they must be used only as
directed by the label. Persons who do not obey the law will be subject to penalties.
Disclaimer Statement
Pesticides recommended in this publication were registered for the prescribed uses when printed. Pesticides registrations are continuously reviewed.
Should registration of a recommended pesticide be canceled, it would no longer be recommended by The University of Tennessee.
Use of trade or brand names in this publication is for clarity and information; it does not imply approval of the product to the exclusion of others which
may be of similar, suitable composition, nor does it guarantee or warrant the standard of the product.
Control Measures
Repeated applications of an insecticide are usually
needed to effectively control lace bugs. The first application
should be made as soon as nymphs appear in the spring,
followed by a second application seven to 10 days later.
Applications should be repeated at monthly intervals as
needed.
Thorough coverage of the undersides of the leaves
where the insects are found is essential if good control is to
be expected. Select one of the insecticides listed below and
follow the label directions. Chlorpyrifos is for use in
commercial nurseries, not for residential use.
• acephate (Orthane Turf, Tree & Ornamental Spray [75% SP], Address T/O [75% SP] );
•chlorpyrifos (Dursban 50 W [50% WSP]);
•beta-cyfluthrin (Tempo SC Ultra [1 lb/gal SC]);
•cyfluthrin (Advanced Garden Lawn & Garden Multi-Insect Killer [0.75% EC], Decathlon 20 WP [20% WP],
Tempo 20 WP [20% WP]);
•imidacloprid (Merit 75 WP [75% WP], Merit 2 [2 lb./gal.F], Merit 2.5 G [2.5%G], Marathon 60 WP [60% WP],
Marathon II [2 lb./gal.F], Advanced Garden Tree and Shrub Insect Control[1.47% concentrate]);
•cyfluthrin plus imidacloprid (Advanced Garden Rose & Flower Insect Killer [0.72% cyfluthrin, 0.72% imidacloprid]);
•disulfoton plus 16-8-8 fertilizer (Advanced Garden 2-in-1 Systemic Azalea, Camellia & Rhododendron Care [1% G]);
•dimethoate (Dygon 400 [4 lb/gal EC], Dimethoate 2.67 EC [2.67 lb/gal EC]); OR
• horticultural oil (SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil [98% EC], Ultra-Fine Oil [98% EC]).
Marathon 60WP is for use only on greenhouse and
nursery ornamental plants, using soil drenches or through an
irrigation system. On stock plants and woody crops with a
production cycle of greater than one year, application may
not exceed once a year.
Merit 75 WP and Merit 2 can be used on turfgrass,
landscape ornamentals and interior plantscapes. It can be
applied to the foliage or even more effectively as a soil
injection or soil drench. When using a soil injection or soil
drench, make application 30 days prior to anticipated pest
infestation. The addition of a nitrogen containing fertilizer,
where applicable, into the solution will enhance the uptake
of the active ingredient